Espirito Santo & Malakula 19th – 31st Oct
I had meant to leave Vahine Bay early for the passage to 48 miles to Espiritu Santo but I was awake very early indeed and failing to get back to sleep thought I would get up and leave anyway. So by 3.30 I was underway, still dark of course but no problems or dangers leaving the anchorage in this bay. Following the coast westwards I just needed to keep far enough offshore to avoid the Minerva reef. I had put a waypoint in the plotter to assist here. Later as the light grew I was joined by a group of dolphins, always a delight this. It had started calm and so motoring but gradually the wind filled in SE 12-15 knots. It looked like I might be in for some rain squalls as we were heading for a line of them. Somehow though we managed to slip though, one passing in front and the next just passing behind. Much later I was approaching the Diamond passage which gives access to the big lagoon between the outlying islands and the main island of Santo itself. The passage was hard to make out from a distance but became clearer as we neared, helped by the prominent rusty wreck of a freighter on the reef of the southern point of Aise island. Diamond passage proves no difficulties at all it being wide and deep. Inside I turned south, thinking to anchor at Palikula bay. The approach was complicated with a narrow and shallow entrance between unmarked reefs, just the water colour to guide you where the reefs lay. I got through the first set and anchored in the recommend outer position. I could see a boat at anchor in the inner bay but I didn’t fancy the way through without a spotter on the bow. I didn’t like where I was, it was calm but a long way from shore and surrounded by reefs I felt trapped. I made a cup of tea and had a bite to eat to recover my composure then weighed anchor and very carefully retraced my path in. Out clear I could breath a sigh of relief and head up to anchor north of the Diamond passage in the lee of Aise Island where I had a very peaceful night.
In the morning I decided to visit Hog harbour and Champagne beach apparently the finest beach in Vanuatu. Exiting through the Undine passage I headed north up the coast, it turned out to be a sunny day with barely any breeze to help us on our way so we motored for a large part.
Turning into the large bay of Hog harbour past Lathu island I anchored off Lonnock beach. There were a 4 boats anchored here already and it took a while to find a suitable clear patch of sand between the coral to anchor. I spent a few days here, swimming, a walk to the village, a visit to the very low key resort ashore where I treated myself to a meal.
Of course I visited champagne beach in the dinghy. I found it a bit spoilt really with buildings by the beach built to cater for the tourists and jetty for the cruise ship launches.
When I left I had a hard beat back against strong SE’erlys to Aise island. This time I anchored south of the shallow patch and this was a better spot than previously. I could could creep further inshore, there was more sand , fewer bommies and I found a good spot in 6m.
There was a small (but still bigger than Sea Bear) yacht inshore of me inhabited by a French man from New Caledonia, a true “vagabond du mer” he was. We had a long chat.
There was a strong wind warning out which persisted fro several days so although I wanted to keep on moving it would not have been good to go to the anchorage at Luganville which is quite exposed to SE & E winds. I did move across the lagoon to anchor at Surundu bay. Entry was through a fairly narrow passage in the reef but the seas were breaking heavily on both sides which at least gives you a good indication where they are. The deep water in the pass is fairly close to the northern reef so it was a little alarming passing so close to the breaking waves. Inside was lovely and sheltered both from wind and waves.
I dinghed to the beach and hitched a lift in a pickup truck into Luganville, the second biggest town in Vanuatu where I could but some much needed supplies.
Luganville was the centre of American operations in New Hebradies during the 2nd world war and that legacy shows in the broad paved main street and a number of surviving consett buildings.
A few days later with the weather just a little not so rough I sailed around to Luganville via the Segond channel. The anchorage was a bit choppy but not too bad. I wanted to be here as this was around 14miles closer to my next objective of Malakula. This was about 35 miles away so an early start was in order. Dawn was just breaking when I left, a little way back up the Segond channel and I could turn round the tip of Aore island and head for the Diver strait between the islands of Abokisa and Tutuba. Here the wind seemed to be funnelling through the gap blowing had with a big swell so it was unpleasant for a while but through the strait conditions thankfully eased. With the wind from Se I couldnt quite set the course I wanted so I knew I would be in for a far bit of tacking. One tack S was sort of in the required direction but it gradually closed the coast so I had to tack E, not where I wanted to go to gain clearance. After several tacks I could clear the SE corner of Malo island and I know had a better slant on the wind as I headed out across the Bouganville strait towards the NW corner of Malakula. The only fly in the ointment was that it meant passing through the overfalls off Malo, but they looked worse than they turned out to be and I was soon through. Just after reaching and passing the North cape of Malkula the wind died, this wasn’t just because I was now in the lee of the island and it started to rain too, but it didn’t last long. A few more miles which seemed to take forever and I could head into Malua bay where I anchored in 7m off a brown sand beach. A fisherman in his dugout came to say hi and gave me 3 mangoes so I gave hime some fishhooks and a lure.
It had been a tough day 48 miles logged and 10 hours sailing time.
Next day was another tough one tacking first S the E with a strong SE wind 20-25 knots and a big southerly swell running. I’d left at 6 but it was after 4 when I got into Lamboubou harbour. Distance logged 41 miles I was quite sure what conditions inside here would be like as it struck me that the swell would be running straight in, but my options were limited as if was about 20 miles to the next anchorage.
As it turned out although there was some swell running in it was much diminished and the bay was completed sheltered from the wind. In consequence Sea Bear swung on her anchor to align herself at first bow on to the slight swell and then later in the night when the tide turned stern too. There was no rolling just a gentle nodding to lull you gently to sleep.
That 20 miles to the next anchorage turned out to be 30 miles after all the tacking necessary and took me 8 hours. The tacks S were particularly unpleasant straight into a big S swell with the strong SE wind generating waves on top. The only small consolation was a group of dolphins playing around the boat for a while. Eventually however we gained the shelter of Metenover or SW bay, that is shelter from the waves and swell but not the wind. I dropped the hook in about 6m. I had been feeling grumpy about this hard passage as I hadn’t eaten or drank anything since the morning but I could now remedy that.
Maewo & Ambae 12th – 18th Oct
Morning dawned, although overcast it looked suitable for moving on so I weighed anchor and motored carefully out between the shallow patches. Once clear I hoisted sail and set course for Maewo the next island to the north about 10 miles away. The forecast was for an E wind 10-15 knots but oh how wrong this was. It wasn’t long before the weather closed in and I was hit with a vicious rain squall 25 knots plus of wind, torrential rain and almost no visibility. Fortunately I had clear water all around. The squall eased after a while but then I was hit by an even fiercer one perhaps 30 -35 knots. I was down to just a triple reefed main at this point but the seas were building with breaking crests, it was far from pleasant.
Eventually it passed and the weather looked to be improving. I passed two yachts exiting Asanvani bay my next objective. Entry to this was fairly straightforward as long as good offing was given to Teterigi point and its off lying rocks.
A fairly deep anchorage this I dropped the hook in 14m in sand and rocks. In consequence the anchor chain spent my stay here grumbling over the rocks as the boat swung to the tide and breeze. Nevertheless it was a pretty spot with sea caves, a waterfall that tumbled almost into the sea and a white coral sand beach. I explored the sea caves by dinghy but they were dissappointly shallow, but nearby there were some nice corals amongst the rocks and some brightly coloured fish.
I visited the waterfall and had a long chat with the owner of the little bar at it’s foot. It was closed at present but he told me of the place and off the dramatic views from here when Ambae erupted in 2018 and off all the ash that it deposited.
I walked through the village and to the other side of the point for a fine view back to Pentecost.
Some Ausies in a big Beneteau were anchored here too, They came over for a couple of chats and seemed quite intrigued oh now I managed on my own.
Leaving Asanvani I sailed a little way northwards up the coast of Maewo. This was partly to get a better slant on the wind for crossing to Ambae but also to see some of the waterfalls for which Maewo is renowned and there were lots. It was tempting to go further North but I was aware that time was running out and beside there was a bit of a SW swell which would have made any anchorages up the coast uncomfortable.
Heading over to Ambae I had a very pleasant sail, wind about 12-15 knots on the quarter and light seas. Oh if only all sailing could be that pleasant!
The entrance to Lolowai bay, which is a drowned old volcanic crater, is a little tricky. You have to skirt closely a steep cliff, once a crater wall then cross a coral flat across the remains of part of the crater wall. My depth gauge read 3m and the boat draws 1.5m so not much water under the keel. There are some leading marks to give you the right line but it is worrying stuff all the same. Once in the depth increases and you are in a wonderful calm circular basin protected from most directions. I anchored in about 12 m in black sand and could recover my composure with a welcome cup of tea.
Ashore there was a shop and wonderfully they had bread and some beer, I had been dry for days.
Over the next few days I took some walks, SE along the track towards the airport, W up to a lake over the ridge and S steeply up the back wall of the bay to a ridge and followed to a viewpoint looking far down to the bay.
At the boat one afternoon I was visited by a group of swimming children who delighted in climbing aboard (at my invite) and leaping off from the pulpit.
The French couple who I had first meet in Aneityum turned up and anchored in the bay.
I was ready to move on again, a fairly long leg to Espirito Santo for which I would need a very early start. I planned to exit the bay, which you can only do after half tide and anchor just around the corner in Vanihe Bay. All packed up, dinghy stowed and ready late afternoon but a check on the forecast showed a strong wind warning for next day 20-25 knots of wind and rough seas so I put the move off.
Next day was better on around high tide in the late afternoon using the leading marks I motored out over the coral flat and around the cliff headland to anchor off a black sand beach in 7 m. A lovely spot this too, the beach was backed by steep cliffs and there was no access by land so it was unspoilt.
Pentecost Island 7th – 11th October
My last few days on Ambrym were bedevilled with rain and strong winds and i didn’t achieve much. With the wet weather I gave up on trying to get to Fanla and thought it time to move on to the next island in the chain, Pentecost. At last wind wise we had a reasonable forecast, that is not too strong although showers were promised for the afternoon. It being about 12 miles across to Pentecost I could do that in a morning and hopefully be safely at anchor before rain. It was not to be. It was drizzling lightly when I weighed anchor in the morning, little wind at first but it soon picked up and I set a double reefed main and the yankee. With a strongish wind on her stern quarter, this is a combination that Sea Bear seems to like and she was going well. Unfortunately the wind speed indicator instrument had stopped working, the sensor cups at the mast head were not rotating at all. A bit of a blow this.
I passed a large school of what I thought must be pilot whales, adults and young. They were too large for dolphins and had a more leisurely motion, a pleasure to see.
A few miles short of Homo bay it came on to rain very heavily and the wind died too. visibility was appalling. Fortunately the approach to anchor in Homo bay is very straightforward with no offshore dangers. Just a matter of heading for the beach until you reach a suitable depth to anchor. I dropped the hook in 10 m about 100 m from the beach, the rain continuing to pour down. The rain didn’t deter two locals from the village paddling out in their dugout canoes to see me. Later in the afternoon it stopped raining and they returned with fresh prawns, grapefruit, bananas, & water cress for me to buy.
I went ashore and watched them prepare Kava and had a couple of glasses with them before returning to the boat to cook the fresh prawns for my dinner. Delicious cooked with garlic and ginger on a bed of rice.
Next day I went ashore and took a walk with chief Sam to a huge Banyan tree and then dug up some water Taro.
Back at his hut he prepared what he called laplap. Basically boiled Taro and Yam then mashed with a little fresh coconut milk and rolled out on a special slab of wood and more coconut milk puddled over the top. It was OK but hardly a gastronomic wonder.
In the afternoon I walked along the beach and track as far as Cook’s rock (yes that man again).
I moved anchorage to the next bay, Wali bay. Pentecost is home to land diving, Bungi jumping is derived from it. I had hoped to see one of the land diving towers here but it had fallen down. They are temporary structure from trees & branches bound together with vines. They only land dive in April & May when the vines they use for “bungies” are green and pliable enough. However they was apparently still a tower standing at the next village Rangusuksu so I walked along the coast to see it.
Back at the boat I moved further north up the coast, anchoring in Waterfall bay. After asking permission at the village I walked up to the waterfall. The plunge pool was a bit difficult of access and not so good for a bathe but to stand in the cool spray was very refreshing and I did bathe in a pool just a little way downstream.
Moving on next day I sailed up the coast and entered Loltong bay. The entry was between two shallow reefs which supposedly dry, there are leading marks to help you in but they are difficult to pick out and see until you are reasonably close in. It was one of those heart in mouth approaches taking it slow and steady. inside I anchored in 5m on sand. The holding is good but you do feel a bit surrounded by reefs.
I saw turtles here and also what I thought was probably a dugong.
I had a walk ashore through the village next day, visited a cave and a fresh water spring on the beach, the water just bubbling up through the sand and pebbles.
It rained hard in the afternoon with very poor visibility, that laid to rest any half formed plans of moving on in the afternoon.
Ambrym 25th Sept – 5th Oct
I weighed anchor and left Lamen Bay at first light, at first there was no wind but it soon kicked in. I settled on a double reefed main and yankee setting course one through between Lamen Island and the NW tip of Epi for Sangorpitu point on Ambrym. There was some good scenery, to the East was the perfect conical active volcano of Lopevi with a little closer the island of Paama.
Away to the west was the island of Malakula and ahead to the North Ambrym itself with the twin volcanoes of Benbow and Marum.
With a good wind I soon made the 27 miles to Craig Cove, but although I ventured into the bay as far as the anchorage I didn’t stop. To my mind it was not sheltered enough , its a deep anchorage too so getting a suitable depth to anchor looked too close to the shore and besides it is said the holding is not good. Since it was still before midday I carried on, rounding Dip point to the lee of the island. I did investigate the anchorage at Baoumi point but there was a little bit of swell here and again it didn’t feel sheltered enough. Carrying on soon the wind increased and I had 30 knots close hauled. I eventually anchored off the black sand beach at Ranvetlan in 7 m. This felt right, more sheltered although the wind was still very strong with williwaws, causing the boat to sheer about quite wildly at times. Miles run 45 in 9hrs 45 mins. I had seen only 1 yacht all day, that anchored in deep water just past Baoumi point.
The wind remained strong with a strong wind warning for the next two days. A NZ boat arrived next afternoon and they later reported that they had had 37 knots of wind. I stayed aboard all day.
Next day although still windy it wasn’t so bad so I ventured ashore. I met a group of school kids walking back along the beach to their village from school. I walked along the beach and then the track to the village of Ranon. I was greeted by a boy sitting under a huge mango tree who handed me a mango to eat, delicious it was too. The older boys came past fresh out of school and chatted with me. Almost all of them carrying machetes and catapults. The machetes or knives because they are such an essential tool of life here, for clearing tracks through the woods, harvesting fruits and yams, breadfruit and such, the catapults for shooting down mangoes from the trees. Most people, even women & quite young children here always carry a machete or knife all the time
I thought of the situation in England where they wouldn’t be allowed anywhere near school let alone out on the street carrying knives. But there is no violence or stabbings here and it made me think that it is our politicans and police that have it wrong. It is not the carrying of knives that is wrong or the problem, it is the hatred in peoples hearts that begets the violence.
I had a walk through the village and ate a plate of rice and meat at a sort of fundraiser. Saw some wood and stone carvings.
Another day I walked along the coast past what I took to be the the ruins of a copra plant to the other village Ranveltan, returning a little way inland by the track.
Leaving here I sailed back to Baoumi point to investigate the hot springs there. However with it being so far into the dry season, they were dried up. There was just a slight sulphurous smelling pool of still water behind the black sand beach. I pressed on inland up the course of the river but it was dried up too.
Returning to the beach a bit of a swell had started so it was time to clear out quickly. Back past Ranon I anchored at Nupol.
Ashore next day I walked along the track past the village of Magham to Olal. Here I was lucky as they were sacking up the copra, carrying it down the beach to a lighter to tack out to a freighter anchored offshore outside the reef.
I was a given a new fruit for me a Ningauvung or Rose Apple- a bit like a pear in texture. Here by the stamped earth ground of what looked liked a meeting place by the kava shack were some of the wooden carvings that are distinctive off the island. Ambrym is a centre of magic in Vanuatu and home to the Rom dance. Unfortunately it is the wrong time of year for me to see any.
Another walk took me along the coast and then inland into the hills. I was hoping to get to the village of Fanla, a kastum village but I took a wrong turning. Back on the main track I met a man just returning from his garden in the forest carrying what turned out to be nuts in his turned up t-shirt. He said if I had time he would take me to his house and crack some for me. We walked into the village and outside his hut he had a special stone with a depression in, the nut was stood up on end and crack with a hammer. Tasty they were. His brothers all came around to say hello. When I left he gave me 2 fresh bread rolls still warm from the oven and a pawpaw.
I am just continually knocked out by the friendlyness of the NiVans. They have so little but are so generous
Lamen Bay, Epi Island 19th – 24th Sept
After a day to rest and relax at Revolieu I set off for Lamen Bay just 13 miles up the coast. There was a strong wind warning out but reasoned in the lee of the island things would be manageable. As often in the lee the winds were very variable and gusty and it seemed to take forever to round Cape Foreland, perhaps the current was against me. As I neared Lamen Bay the wind really piped up and I had a head wind of about 25 knots. There were about 7 boats anchored here but fortunately anchoring went well, it can be tricky in very strong winds and I dropped the hook in 9m and the holding was good in white sand.
Next day the forecast was not looking good 30 knot winds were predicted for the next few days so I moved a little closer inshore to anchor in 6m, reasoning it would be a trifle more sheltered. Shane & Hannah in a NZ cat “Beachlands” offered & helped me in this as sometime is strong winds it is difficult to maintain control raising the anchor whilst single handed.
“Beachlands” took me ashore for coffee at a lovely little spot next morning as I hadn’t yet inflated my dinghy with the winds so strong but I did later and I took a walk along the beach past the village and airstrip and through the conservation zone right up to the NW point of the island. Apparently turtles lay eggs on the beaches in the conservation zone. I had seen lots of turtles swimming about in the bay, but unfortunately didn’t spot any dugongs for which the bay is famous.
One evening I was invited for dinner aboard “Beachlands” with Shane, Hannah & Allanha. Had a nice curry and drinks, a very convivial eve.
We also had a meal at “Benintoes”, the wife of the chief at her lovely little restaurant all decorated with strings of sea shells. We had previously spent some time collecting shells on the beach with her to add to her strings.
After some day the winds eased and all the boats bar me and the French couple I had first met in Anatom, cleared out. I though I would wait a day to give the seas, which had been forecast for 3m swells, more chance to calm down.
I went for a longish walk inland past another village up a very steep hill and then a little south, nice views in parts and very interesting. I planned to leave the next day after picking up some bread that eve baked by Beni for me.
Port Villa & passage to Epi 9th -18th Sept
I ended up staying longer than intended in Port Villa. Jan & Richard were on their way back from Santo here so I waited an extra couple of days to see them again. Then the weather turned bad and it rained just about non-stop for 3 days. When eventually the rain stopped it was very windy with a strong wind warning out and very rough seas and big waves. So although this was frustrating as I wanted to be on my way, it was better to be here tied to a big strong mooring in a sheltered place than out at anchor somewhere. I could pass the time wandering through the town.
One day it dawned fair and although it was still quite windy the strong wind warning had gone. I had originally meant to hop up to Havanna harbour in the north of the island but a rhinoceros beetle scare was on and the whole area had been declared a no go zone.
In this case it was about 80 miles up to Epi, so another night passage was on the cards. I left the mooring in the late afternoon, giving myself a few daylight hours to clear out of Mele bay and get around Devils point which has a reputation for rough seas.
It was still windy with the wind at the top end of the forecast level of 15 -20 knots and the seas fairly rough and rolly. I settled for a triple reefed main and the staysail and was still making 5 knots.
It turned out to be a long sleepless night largely on account of other traffic. Just before dusk a yacht past going south. Later the first boat approaching from my stern I was able to resolve as would pass my stern and pass on my port side some way off.
The second set of light seemed to be going not that much faster than me and was always seemed to be in the same place astern. Boats around here don’t seem to have AIS, that most valuable tool I couldn’t relax. Hours later it was much closer, its navigation lights hidden by the blaze of 2 great spotlights and it seemed to be heading straight for me. I took the unusual step for me of trying to call them up on channel 16 vhf but could get no response. Maybe they had heard me though as they seemed to change course slightly went past my stern and passed me on my port side. I was quite relieved. I was kept on my toes by more lights ahead, another boat this time going south and passed some way off and I spotted a yachts tricolour some way off. seemed a busy old night so I prudently decided to forgo my usual naps at night.
Dawn revealed Epi ahead and the Shepherd islands way off to the east. One had the perfect volcano cone profile and I wished I was passing it closer. Off the SE corner of Epi there are some submarine volcanoes, quite active apparently, probably not wise to go that way!
The seas were calmer once in the lee of the island and before too long I was lining up the boat to go into Revolieu bay to drop the hook and catch up on a little sleep after a passage of 87 miles and 18 hours.
Erromango & Efate 29th Aug – 8th Sept
The next hop was 50 miles to Dillon bay on Erromango island. I wasn’t sure whether I would be able to do this in daylight hours, there is just 12 hours of daylight here. I weighed anchor just before sunrise and had a nice view of Mt Yasur the volcano “pothering” out its smoke.
The forecast had been for 10-15 knots from SE but it was stronger than that so I was able to keep up a good speed and 11 hours later I had dropped anchor in Dillon Bay. I was very pleased with that.
David from the village paddled out in his outrigger dugout canoe with a gift of bananas, pawpaw and the biggest lemon I had ever seen. I gave him some flour and rice, the supply boat only visits once a month so they run low of things at times
He has built a “yacht cub” ashore for visiting cruisers. Next day I visited him there, he has set himself up as a guide. He showed me the village, the gardens and a delightful swimming pool in the river where I had a lovely dip. He told me the names of the trees and their uses some as a source of incense (sandlewood) others to use as lamps, and which trees they made their dug out canoes from. I was surprised to learn that there are Kauri trees here and they have created a protected zone for them. Afterwards I had lunch with them, rice , yams, fried bananas, manioc, a stew/soup of beef and cabbage fresh squeezed lemon juice and of course pawpaw. Again I learned a little more off the island. Although it is quite a big island there are just 2 villages and there is virtually no development on the island and it is largely off the tourist track.
Some strong winds arrived so I stayed put for a couple of days as the forecasts were for 20-25 knots and very rough seas and I didn’t fancy getting beat about.
It was 80 miles to Efate, the next island and the capital Port Villa, so it was to be a night time passage. Setting off late afternoon once the weather had eased I was hoping for a quiet and peaceful passage, trouble was the wind had eased so much there was virtually none. I had to resort to motoring, at least the seas were calm, shame about 12 hours of engine noise though. Still arrived in Port Villa and was soon secured to a substantial mooring ball.
Ashore it was a bit of a culture shock, shops, banks, restaurants, busy with traffic, all the trappings of a tourist town and the place seemed overrun with Aussies. Well I suppose it’s just a fairly short hop for them, a bit like Brits jetting off to Spain or Greece for their holidays. Still it was good to replenish the stores on things that I had run out of or was running short off. There was a strong French influence about the place, some french supermarkets and the bread was baguette style.
With such a sheltered & calm mooring field here I thought it ideal to clean off the bottom of Sea Bear after all she had been in the water for 6 months now. I was lying in the dinghy, arm in the water scrubbing the waterline when the moorings boatman spotted me and made me an offer I couldn’t refuse to clean the hull for me for a very cheap price. So now we have a nice clean hull again, it makes quite a difference to the sailing performance.
Tana 24th- 28th Aug
Leaving Anawamet bay just after sunrise I was headed for the island of Tana. Calm at first the wind and waves soon picked up and we had 2 mad half hour periods when the wind went from about 15 to over 25 knots and more very quickly raising quite a sea. Fortunately later it eased a little later but the sea state remained rough all day. Rounding point Yewao, the wind was up to 25 knots again but we could head into Port Resolution where although the wind remained strong the seas flattened out and I could anchor in about 6 m. There were about 6 other boats anchored here, the main attraction here being Mt Yasur, an active volcano. Port Resolution was named by that man Captain Cook again, seems like I have been following in his wake for a couple of years now.
I visited the village ashore and was given a welcoming gift couple of bunches of bananas and a big pawpaw by Johnson.
I arranged a trip to visit the volcano through him. In the afternoon we were driven in a 4wheel drive pickup to the reception centre at the the foot of the mountain.
After a ceremonial presentation and a “volcano” dance by the villagers we drove up the 4wheel drive track to a grey ashy plain. A walk up to the crater rim in the late afternoon and we could peer down into what looked like the pit of hell.
Further around the rim the bubbling lava was plain to see and every now and then and explosion would send molten fragments high to splash on the crater walls. As darkness fell the sight was even more spectacular. It was an awe inspiring experience to be so close.
Another day I walked around the bay and up steep forest tracks to Enpitoka jungle farm. Philimon the chief wasn’t there but his wife showed me around the gardens and showed me some of the crops they grew which included: yams, taro, manioc, tobacco, onions, cabbage (but not the stuff we know, this was leaves of a small tree), kava, lemons, bananas and coconuts. She also gave me some slices of pawpaw to eat.
On the way back I stopped for a chat with a young man in one of the small settlements in the forest and he explained how the villagers acted collectively.
Much as I enjoyed staying in Port Resolution the anchorage was a little rolly and there were so many more islands to explore so I decided to move onto Eromanga the next island in the chain.
Passage to Vanuatu, & Aneityum, Anelcauhat 14th – 23rd Aug
Before leaving Vuda the staff gathered on the dock and sang me a farewell song.
It was about 20 miles to Navula passage, out through the reef. By the time I got there it was growing dark, the wind had picked up and was blowing hard I knew it would be rough outside and the smoke from a fire on the hillside was obscuring the leading lights. I didn’t feel like passing through the reef in those conditions, so although you are not supposed to I turned into Momi bay and anchored there for the night. Much refreshed next morning I set out again, the wind had dropped and I had an easy passage out through the reef and could set course for Vanuatu, 450 miles away. I was aiming for Aneityum, the most southerly of the islands. It is not an official port of entry but you can ask for special permission to clear there, which I had done and it had been granted. The great advantage of clearing here first is that you can then work you way north up the island chain without having to beat against the trade winds. The passage went quite well although the 2nd day turned out very windy with rough and at times very rough seas coming from abeam and breaking. Several times waves broke against the boat and into the cockpit. I managed to stay dry in the shelter of the spray hood. We had a full moon for this passage so the nights were far from dark even with cloud cover.
The only other boat I saw was on the last eve, I had just spotted the island about 60 miles a way and shortened sail to slow down to preclude a nighttime arrival when I spotted a sail astern. It soon passed me.
Sunrise of the 5th day out found me about 4miles off the SE corner of the island, just about perfect timing I thought. As I skirted the Southern coast and rounded the reefs there I noticed several sailboats leaving the bay. Great it was the rally boats leaving meaning an uncrowded anchorage. I am not a fan of these yacht rallies of which there seems to be more and more. It means a great crowd of yachts in anchorages all at once. With the rally boats left there was plenty of space for me to choose a nice anchor spot in about 7m of water. My noon to run runs for this passage were all over 100 miles which was pleasing.
After a brew of tea I inflated the dinghy and went ashore. My luck was in, Customs, Immigration and Biosecurity officers were all still here, they are not on the island full time so clearance was painless quick and friendly. A stroll through the village and along the beach completed the day.
Next day I walked along tracks and beaches to the next bay and village, all very delightful.
No real roads on the island, people live in simple woven huts by fishing and farming. They speak a form of pigdeon English though many speak English too. They are mostly a little shy but friendly and welcoming always with a greeting.
I walked up to this waterfall in the forest.
Sammy who I’d met on 1st day took me a village inland from Anelcauhat and introduced me to Ali who guided me there. I wouldn’t have found the way by myself. A vague trail, muddy in places, over fallen trees, under fallen trees, crossing gulleys and across the river on slippery boulders 5 or 6 times and after 2 or more hard hours we got there.
Had a refreshing cold swim in the pool under the falls. I had taken some nuts with me and offered some to Ali. From his quizzical expression studying a cashew nut I could tell he had never seen one before, but he enjoyed them. Having left at 10 I was back on the beach and my dinghy about 4 just a little tired.
The bay is open to the West so one morning when the waves started into the bay and a gentle at first west wind, it was time to move out. Francoise the Frenchman in the other boat at anchor came across with some query about english words in descriptions of other anchorages on the island. We decided to head up to Anawamet bay on the North coast, this should give some shelter from the west. It would also be a handy spot for jumping off heading north
Anchoring here, the village chief paddled out in his dugout canoe to say hi and welcome us and I had quite a long chat with him about his village and the island.
It was fairly cloudy when I weighed anchor in Suva harbour but i hoped it would clear later. Approaching the leading marks for the passage for the reef I had a bit of a scare when a big tug that had been on station headed straight for me. I turned the boat around and he altered course to still point at me. Transpired that he just wanted to warm me there was big tanker heading in to the channel and please pass starboard to starboard. I suppose he had tried to reach me on the radio but mine was off, I reason that I can’t be below to respond to the radio and on deck steering and looking out at the same time! The channel through the reef is pretty wide so there was no problems passing the inbound tanker. Once out I could set the yankee, the main was already hoisted and set a course for the start of the Beqa channel about 20 miles away. It was grey and drizzly but the sea was pretty calm and fairly gentle wind of 10 – 14 knots from astern wafted us along. Gradually the weather cleared and the afternoon turned out fine. The narrowest point of the channel between the mainland and the reefs of Beqa is about 1 mile wide, there was a marker on the reefs of the mainland but none on the outlying rocks of the islands. It’s a case of trusting the plotter plus of course careful eyeball navigation. Once through I could shape a course to give me a good offshore clearance before evening. The Coral Coast has a bad reputation for yachts and I wasn’t about to flirt with it too closely at night. I kept a careful eye on a boat far ahead but heading my way. Judging it would cross my bows I was ready to alter course when it was obvious that the Chinese fishing boat was just going to plough ahead seemingly regardless. In the end it passed about 200m ahead of me, I didn’t see anyone in the wheelhouse and no-one on deck and no AIS signal. All rather worrying for the passage at night. With dusk I put my customary precautionary reef in the main and settled down for a long night. Later an increase in the wind called for a 2nd reef in the main so i was glad i already had the 1st in. I saw the lights of a couple of ships one bound west the other east but they were well clear of me.
Just before the dawn I spied the light on the SW corner of the mainland. It was light when I rounded it and gybed to head for my waypoint at the start of the Navula passage. The wind was increasing, now 25 knots and the seas quite nasty so in with a third reef and now just a scrap of the yankee. I was a little concerned about passing through the reefs in these conditions but the entrance is wide and well marked with two massive beacons. As I drew near, now with the boat close hauled, I sailed into the lee of the reefs which calmed the seas considerably and I was pleased I could hold the correct course. Once through I continued on the same line to arrive in Momi bay. It was still blowing strongly but I anchored at 10.20 am in about 8m in the shelter of the bay. 26 hours for the 96 mile passage. Time for cuppa then a short nap.
I stayed here the rest of the afternoon and the next day whilst the wind still blew strongly.
My friends Jan & Richard on Morpheus were in Vuda marina so I made my way there, mostly motoring as no wind. The entrance is a channel cut through the reef, it doesn’t look its supposed 25m wide at low water and with the depth showing as 2m at it’s shallowist I entered with due caution. The marina is in the form of a circle with boats Med moor style bows pointing to the wall, stern lines attached to buoys. The staff help you moor thank goodness. To disembark means climbing over the pulpit to step onto a wooden platform, how hard or easy this is depends on the state of the tide.
Much as I try and mostly avoid marinas it is good once in the while, pretty easy shore access, unlimited fresh water, showers ashore and of course a bar and restaurant. It is relaxing and was good to catch up with friends, not have to cook for a few meals and listen to some live music.
Monday and from the road junction I caught the bus into into Nadi, Fiji’s 2nd town. Here I visited the Sri Siva Subramaniya temple, built in Dravidian and Vastu Vedic traditions, it is stunningly decorated and painted. I ate a nice lunch in the vegetarian restaurant there. A wander around the town and market completed my visit before catching the bus back.
The rope cutter on the propshaft had been making funny noises for a while and I knew that I would have to dive on it to sort it out but conditions at various anchorages had not been ideal, too windy, choppy seas or filthy water with no visibility. Time to do it, I arranged a canvas bag underneath and after repeated dives dismantled the rope cutter. It was badly worn for some reason so I wont be refitting it. The water wasn’t the cleanest here but at least I could nip for a hot shower as soon as I had done.
Whilst here I also took a bus to Lautoka, this is the sugar capital of Fiji. There is a big sugar refining factory here with trucks and little railway carts loaded up with cut sugar cane. It is a very Indian town, busy and bustling.
It is time for me to leave Fiji so in a couple of days I will check out and make for Vanuatu.